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GWALIOR

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GENERAL INFO

Dominated by one of the mightiest forts of Asia, and steeped in historic tradition, Gwalior is an excellent entry point into India's largest and geographically most attractive state: Madhya Pradesh. In legend Gwalior's history goes back to multitude of reigning dynasties of the great Rajput clans of the Pratiharas, Kachwas and Tomars who have left indelible etchings of their rule in this city of palaces, temples and monuments. The magnificent mementoes of a glorious past have been preserved with care giving Gwalior a unique and timeless appeal. In the 8th century AD its chieftain Suraj Sen was cured of leprosy by a hermit saint, Gwalipa in gratitude he named the city after his name.

GWALIOR FORT
The legend goes that 2000 years ago, after being separated from his attendants, a weary and thirsty Rajput King, Suraj Sen stumbled upon the sage 'Gwalipa', who directed him to a pond. As he splashed water over himself, he was cured of his leprosy too. The grateful king, named the pond 'Suraj Kund' and founded the fort which was named Fort Gwalior, after the sage.

Gwalior Fort is one of India's most famous forts. It has withstood the onslaught of many warring dynasties, each of whom have left their traces in various monuments in and around the fort. The sandstone fort, rising 300 ft. on a steep, flat topped hill, stands out in its grand isolation. As aptly described by Emperor Babur, 'the fort of Gwalior is like a pearl in the necklace among the palaces of India. The son-et lumiere show at the fort brings alive the rich historic traditions to the traveler. Indeed, it is one of the most spectacular shows in the country.

The walls and caves inside the Gwalior Fort have intricately carved Jain sculptures. A rich reminence of the Jain influence in this area through the 13^th and 14^th centuries.

GUJARI MAHAL
Within the Fort are some marvels of medieval architecture. The 15th century Gujari Mahal is a monument to the love of Raja Mansingh Tomar for the intrepid Mrignayani, a  tribal Gujar queen. The outer structure of the Gujari Mahal has survived in an almost total state of preservation; the interior has been converted into an archaeological Museum housing rare antiquities, some of them dating back to the 1st century AD. Amongst the 36 greatest singers of India, 15 are known to have learnt the art of the their music here, including the immortal Tansen.

JAIN SCULPTURES
The long ascent on the southern side climbs up through a ravine to the fort gate. Along the rock faces flanking this road are many Jain sculptures, some impressively big. Originally cut into the cliff faces in the mid-15th century, they were defaced by the forces of Babur in 1527 but were later repaired.

The images are in five main groups and are numbered. In the Arwahi group, image 20 is 17m-high standing sculpture of the first Jain tirthankar (revered teacher or saint), Adinath, while image 22 is a 10m-high seated figure of Nemnath, the 22nd Jain tirthankar. The south-eastern group is the most important and covers nearly 1Km of the cliff face with more than 20 images.

MAN MANDIR PALACE
Within the fort, the most important structure is Man Mandir, built by Raja Man Singh, the greatest of the Tomar rulers. This graceful palace was noted by Fergusson as 'the most remarkable and interesting example of early Hindu palaces' . The walls are inlaid with enameled tiles of blue, green and yellow decorated with animal motifs. Two courtyards within, lead into rooms which are richly ornamented with jali-work, cornices, mouldings, geometric and flora patterns in a mosaic of tiles.

The palace was once decorated with precious jewels which were removed by plundering Mughals. who later turned the fort into a political prison. The Archaeological Museum housed here, has an excellent collection of carving, images, coins, inscriptions paintings and other antiques, dated as early as the 3rd century BC, till the 13 century AD. 

TELI KA MANDIR
This temple probably dates from the 9th century but has been restored. Its peculiar design incorporates a Dravidian roof with Indo-Aryan decorations (the whole temple is covered with sculptures). A Garuda tops the 10m-high doorway .Here princes and princesses came to be betrothed and received education on the aspects of married life. The walls of the temple slope upward and from a ridge from which the roof rises.

GHAUS MOHAMMED'S TOMB
the sandstone mausoleum of the Afghan's prince, Ghaus Mohammed, is also designed on early Mughal lines. Particularly exquisite are the screens which use the pierced stone technique as delicate as lace.

SAS BAHU TEMPLE
The Sas Bahu, or Mother-in-Law and Daughters-in-Law temples, stand close to the eastern wall about midway along that side of the fort. The two temples are similar in style, and date from the 9th to 11th centuries. Sas Bahu ka Mandir is also dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Originally known as the 'Sahasrabahu' temple, this is probably the most ancient structure within the fort walls, built by Mahipala, the Kachchwan King, in the early 11th century AD. The larger temple has an ornately carved base and figures of Vishnu over the entrances, and four huge pillars carry the heavy roof.

GURUDWARA DATA BANDHI CHHOD
Between the Teli Ka Mandir and the Sasbahu temples is an impressive gleaming white Sikh gurudwara, or temple.Built in the memory of Guru Hargovind Saheb the sixth Sikh Guru, who was imprisoned here by Emperor Jehangir for over two years.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
The museum is within the Gujri Mahal. Built in the 15th century by Man Singh for his favourite queen, Mrignayni, the palace is now in a rather deteriorated condition. There's a large collection of Hindu and Jain sculptures and copies of the Bagh Caves frescoes.

JAI VILAS PALACE & SCINDIA MUSEUM
Although the current maharaja still lives in the palace of Scindia family, 35 rooms are now a museum. It's full of the bizarre items Hollywood maharajas are supposed to collect, such as Belgium cut-glass furniture (including a rocking chair), and what looks like half the tiger population of India, all shot, stuffed and moth-eaten. Modes of transport range from a Rolls Royce on rails to a German bubble car. Then there is a little room full of erotica, including a life-sized marble statue of Leda having her way with a swan. But the pièce de resistance is a model railway that carried brandy and cigars around the dining table after dinner.

The main durbar hall is impressive. The gold paint used around the room is said to weigh 58kg, and the two giant chandeliers are incredible; they each hold 248 candles, are 12.5m high and weigh 3.5 tonnes apiece - so heavy that before they were installed, elephants were suspended were suspended from the ceiling to check that it could take the weight.

TANSEN'S  TOMB
A pillar of Hindustani classical music, the great Tansen, one of the 'nine-jewels' of Albar's court lies buried in Gwalior. The memorial of the great musician has a pristine simplicity about it, and is built in the early Mughal architectural style. More than a monument, the tomb is part of Gwalior's living cultural heritage; it is the venue of a national scale music festival, held annually in November-December.